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| Sunrise from Shwezigon |
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But, as it unfolds its arms to the world, it will not be long before more big brands come in and start to globalise this nation, turning it into another typical city like Bangkok. They may have a Charles and Keith and a Chewy junior and it's a joy to see that our local brands are making waves overseas. However, these are just a few international brands. Much of its brands are still owned by its locals, making this nation special and unique. See this nation before McDonalds, 7-11, Starbucks invade.
Before you book that flight, here are some recommendations and things you should know.
MYANMAR OR BURMA?
Beloved political leader and daughter of the former General Aung San , Daw Aung San Suu Kyi prefers the latter. In an interview with Lonely Planet, she says that 'Myanmar' was never approved by its people. Despite this, the military junta went ahead to change its name. In any case, both are accepted worldwide.
MONEY
You may have read this before and it's true- Bring clean bills! Hotels and restaurants will only accept clean US bills because the banks may not accept them . Stained Burmese notes are fine. Most places accept both USD and Burmese Kyats(K). Cheaper to pay in Kyats, usually. 1USD =1000KKyats are not available in Singapore. However, you may change them on the streets of Yangon or once you arrive at the airport. And oh, don't be surprised when you land, they are developing quite rapidly.
TRANSPORT
Within a TownThe most economical way to travel around the city / town is by ...foot! Obviously that's free, but with so much to see and do, it may take a toll on your feet. Bike around the town! it's only USD2 for the whole day's rent. Do note that bicycles are not always in tip-top condition. Check before you leave the store. Be prepared to fix a bike as there is a 1 in ten chance that the pedal gives way or the chain breaks. Otherwise, a local with the tools & know-hows will be more than willing to help :) And hey, if you ever fix that on your own, good job. You're one level up !
Taxis are cheap, negotiate the price before you jump into one.
Between Towns/ Cities
Bus
When travelling between cities or towns, buses are the better option than trains. Bus rides for foreigners comes with clean seats and rest stops for you to eat. They may cost a little more than trains but they get you to your destination earlier. Also, with the newly built highway , one can breeze through from Yangon to Mandalay on board a coach. Expect to pay USD15-20 for a one way ticket from Yangon to Bagan. The bus terminal in Yangon is about 1hr drive from the city. Bus rides may be cold, so bring along a jacket. Some bus companies provide blankets and refresher kits and even snacks.
Tchu -tchu Train
Though cheap, train rides tend to be slow and very bumpy. Be sure to get on the right train before it moves off. Rides are cheap and with USD 6 ,you can get a one from Pyin Oo Lwin to Hsipaw in about 7 hours in First Class. There is no air conditioning, so enjoy the cool breeze and the rain when it comes. Toilets are available on board. It may be wise not to leave your baggage overhead, as the trains may rock violently from side to side, thereby causing the bags to shift and potentially hurt someone! Do strap it down to the railings before you snooze, if you can even snooze on such rides.
Air
Unless you are really pressed for time, Air Bagan, Air Mandalay, Asian Wings and Air KBZ offer domestic flights. Not worth paying 65USD, which you can save and indulge in a sunset dinner or maybe 2.
COMMUNICATION
Something we all love is available at most hotels- free wifi! Some cafes do offer it too.
In case your driver is calling you, the calling code for Myanmar is +95. It may not be a scammer after all.
If you are afraid that you may sound like a duck talking to a chicken, fret not, most of the locals speak English, even if it may be very basic. The older folks speak very good English, thanks to the British who once ruled over this land. Some Chinese Burmese speak Hokkien too. And oh, expect to meet Indians and Thais too. Myanmar is after all, a neighbor to 5 countries- Thailand, Laos, China,India and Bangladesh- making it the Golden Land.
VISIT
Yangon
Walk down the streets of Chinatown in Yangon and you'll find people selling everything from their antiques, tools and stationery, to their local dishes and fruits. Do watch where you are walking as drains may not be covered and strong water currents lie beneath during the rainy season. In this motorbike- free city, you'll find that crossing the road isn't as hard as Vietnam with traffic lights and overhead bridges. Watch as they board and get off the overcrowded public buses. Looking at the faces of the locals, you'll notice the ladies apply Thanaka in various shapes and sizes.Head to the Bogyoke Aung San Market and expect to spend a couple of hours there. Do master the art of friendly bargaining ; chances are you'll buy something here. You'll find everything from hair accessories, to clothes, Strepsils, Brands essence, Vitamins, first aid, stationery, laminated world maps and human body charts.Handmade slippers and Langyi make great buys.
The architecture at Holy Trinity Church is not to be missed. Stop by for a prayer or come in for a short stroll in its garden. There is a smaller market beside it.
Take a stroll at the Inya Lake, which you'll see on your way from the airport to the city. This is where the beloved political leader, Aung San Suu Kyi lives.
With the on-going conflicts between the Buddhists and the Muslims, it's amazing that the Sule Pagoda and the Sunni Jamah Bengali Mosque sit side by side, in peace.
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| Side by side , Yangon |
New Bagan
1 Day Cycling Trip ( shag level : 8/10) New Bagan- Old Bagan- Nyuang U - Old Bagan - New BaganFor a day trip, cycle north to Old Bagan (30 min with no breaks) and continue on north to the town of Nyuang Oo(another 45 minutes), sometimes spelt Nyuang U . Enjoy the view of the ruins of the 4000 stupas , pagodas built in the 1200s in Old Bagan. If you are up early, head to the top of the Shwezigon Pagoda in Old Bagan for a view of the Sunrise. You may also see the sunset from there. Do note there are numerous slopes along the way and if you still have the energy to go on, cycle further north to Nyuang U. This is where the buses stop to pick up passengers heading to Yangon/ Manadalay/ Nyuang Shwe. Stop by for lunch at The Beach Bagan for a beer and a sandwich. Check out the town and meet the friendly locals.
Head back towards Old Bagan and have dinner at Star Beam restaurant and the Moon. They are just side by side and in front of a temple. Watch for signs as you arrive in Old Bagan. You may sit in one restaurant and order from both stalls. That's what we did. They make good neighbours, I'd say! The owner of Star Beam Restaurant used to work in Singapore enabling him to hold a conversation in English.Also, he said he is opening a new restaurant in New Bagan. It might be up by now already. Oh by the way,bring along a torch / use your iPhone Flash light at night because there are no street lights along this stretch! When we were there at the restaurant, it turned dark and because we were not prepared for this , the owner of Star Beam kindly offered to ride his motorbike to guide us home. I recommend arriving at this place at 430pm or earlier , especially if you have to cycle back to New Bagan. If you can't make it, it would be wiser to head back to New Bagan and dine at Sunset Garden. You will make it in time for sunset if you don't break for too long.
1 Day Cycling Trip (shag level: 5/10) Hotel - Jasmine Family Lacquerware Workshop- Sunset Garden- Hotel
Visit the Jasmine Family Lacquerware Workshop, located 3 min behind the white temple between Old and New Bagan. As you head towards Old Bagan from New Bagan, look out on your left. There is a small mud road beside the white temple for bikes and trucks to enter on your. Walk/ cycle down the path for a couple of minutes and the workshop should be on your right. Ask a local around the area to show you where it is. Watch how lacquerware is made and bring a souvenir cup home for just USD7 . This factory may not be listed on tripadvisor (yet), but it sure is worth going for an educational visit.
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| Lacquerware Cup |
Nyuang Shwe
When you arrive in this town, your coach drivers will collect 5USD from each foreigner. They will issue you with an entrance ticket but no one has stopped us to check on that.
1 Day Boat trip (shag level: 3/10)If you come to Inle Lake, staying at Nyuang Shwe is a good base. From here, you can take a boat ride around the lake on a motorised longtail boat, the same kind of boat which local fishermen use. You can easily spot a fishing from afar when you see their boat and their huge iconic conical fisherman net. The boat ride costs about 15-20USD which can be shared among 5-10 people. It comes with a tour guide and he'll take to see various factories, temples, and the floating market.
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| Fisherman on Inle Lake |
1 Day Cycling Trip (shag level: 8/10)
Nyuang Shwe- Red Mountain- Inle Lake- Hot Springs- Nyuang Shwe.
Visit the Red Mountain Wine Estate and enjoy stunning views of Nyuang Shwe and the Inle Lake. Try their tom yam soup which certainly delights the palate with its balance of sweet, sour and spicy. USD2. Go for the wine tasters to try 4 different wines. USD 5
After that, cycle towards the Inle Lake and cross it by boat towards the hot springs on the other side. Soak in the hot springs for about an hour or two while you enjoy the view of the mountains, should you choose the private baths. After which you may wish to enjoy a cuppa tea at their cafe.
Cycle back to Nyuang Shwe. Roads from the hot spring to Nyuang Shwe may be muddy and bumpy. Cycle with care!
Pyin Oo Lwin
1 Day cycling trip to National Gardens (shag level: 6/10)If you are up early, cycle to the Market which closes by 1pm, otherwise to the Kandawgyi National Gardens . An entrance fee of 5USD applies but you'll get to see lot of birds up close at the aviary. Beautiful birds include the huge hornbills which tend to perch beside you waiting for its feed. There is also Kandawgyi Cafe and you can enjoy the view of the gardens from here. A truly relaxing place.
Hsipaw
Hsipaw, otherwise known as Thibaw, is a small town in the Shan State in Eastern Myanmar.This is where the Last Shan Prince used to live before General Ne Win and his army executed him. His wife, known as Sao Ohn Nyunt or the last Shan princess, has returned to Austria with their kids.1 Day Cycling Trip
Pontoon Coffee - Shan Palace- Mrs Popcorn Gardens
Coffee kick starts the day and Pontoon Coffee makes the best in town. Do note they have shifted, ask the locals. Have their instagram + photo-worthy banana pancakes for some energy before taking a leisurely cycle to the Shan Palace.
If you do visit the Shan Palace, it's best to be there in the morning. Someone will open the gates for you and explain the story of the Shan Prince and his familly. Donations are welcome and you can read more about the Last Shan Princess from the book ' Twilight over Burma'.
Cycle to Mrs Popcorn Gardens some 15 minutes away and try the delish fried rice. This serene place is run by a local granny who once used to teach. Upon her retirement, she was not given enough and hence, she sells fried rice for a living. She once sold popcorns when her husband was still around, but since then, she has been cooking fried rice for her guests with love. Service is a little slow considering granny needs to take a little more time so come and enjoy the tranquil in her humble, peaceful sanctuary. Try her shakes too, they are fresh and tasty. Price to enjoy the food, the love & peace: USD 1-3
Mr Cook " Law Chun" Restaurant serves Chinese cuisine at decent prices. Order it Tze -char style ( ordering a few dishes to share and go along with your personal bowl of rice)
Just behind Yee Shin guest house is Valentines. Head over for some ice cream or bubble tea. Price to chillax with 3 scoops of ice cream: USD 1.50
SHOP LOCAL
LANGYI- the sarongIf you have spare cash and feel like spending it, buy their national costume , the langyi (similar to a sarong) and a matching blouse, which can be tailored in 2 to 3 days. Costs USD 10-30 depending on quality and material. If you are a guy, you can just wear a langyi on its own (USD 5) with your singlet or a long sleeved shirt. Wear it like a local!
THANAKA- that face cream
The Burmese apply Thanaka on their faces. According to locals, this is their form of make up and UV sunblock. It is said that Thanaka helps to whiten the skin and prevent acne. Thanaka comes from the bark of the Thanaka tree. You can buy a small block of it for about 1 USD.
HANDMADE SLIPPERS
These beautifully handcrafted slippers can be found in the markets of Yangon. Each pair costs USD 2- 15, depending on the material. Straw slippers tend to cost more than the velvety ones.
HANDMADE LANTERNS
Get some locally made lanterns as part of your home decor. These beautiful crafts can be purchased at Inle Lake and its surrounds for USD2-4 depending on the size and shape.
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| Handmade Lanterns |
ACCOMMODATION
During the off peak season, accommodation can be booked easily on the spot when you arrive at the hotel.
Yangon: Agga House USD $15 per person
A budget accommodation in Chinatown. It may not be the most up to date in terms of design and furniture but the good service makes up for it. It was relatively clean when we were there. Toilets are shared. They do offer pick up from the airport at an additional cost. Do note that because of the jams, it may take 1 hour or so to reach the hotel and vice versa.
New Bagan: Mya Thida USD 15 per person
I really enjoyed the service here; it was warm and friendly, thanks to the owner who used to work in Singapore for a few years and because of that, we could hold a conversation in English. Rooms are air- conditioned and each room come with a toilet. He also provides breakfast. Bicycles are available for rent.Tour & Coach bookings available.Nyuang Shwe / Inle Lake: Aquarius Inn USD 15 per person
Aquarius Inn- simply the best stay during the trip.The inn was clean, new, cheap and the staff were friendly. It is run by a family of almost 10! Breakfast was included and the fruits served was fresh, especially their mangoes. Tour & Coach bookings available at good prices.Bicycles are available for rent next door. From here, you can cycle to the Red Mountain Wine Estate and cross the Lake by a longtail boat for a few bucks to see the hot springs.Pyin Oo Lwin: Aster Hotel USD 15-20 per person per night
Located 10 min drive from the city center, this hotel offers clean and huge rooms with good service. Breakfast was alright but if you;d like something else, there is a cafe just a 3 min walk away. Shuttle service to town is available. Bicycles are available for rent.Hsipaw: Yee Shin Hostel USD 7-10 per person
This hotel is worth coming to for its good location and friendly service. Located along the main road in Hsipaw, this new hotel is hard to miss. The owner of this hotel is a Chinese and speak Chinese and Hokkien well. Very friendly and kind man. If you come by train , there is a free shuttle from the train station to the hotel. There are no air conditioners in some rooms but the fan was good enough . Bicycles are available for rent.
FOOD
9 dishes you must try in Myanmar
satisfy your hunger pangs and indulge in these local snacks
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| Sweet Char Siew Puff Remember Char Siew Shu? Yes, it remind me of that. |
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| Nangyi Thoke A cold noddle salad served with pork broth. |
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| Shredded Coconut Crepe This one is rare in Yangon but it sure is delish! |
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| Noodles with Shredded Pork Somewhat like the Singapore Bak Chor mee, this dish is prepared Shan style and served with a peppery broth on the side |
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| Inle Fish This mildly spicy Shan dish goes well with rice. Have it fresh when you're near the lake. |
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Mont lin mayar or mont oke galay Rice flour batter fried in a dome shaped pan |
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| Stir fried Chicken with Cashew and Vegetable You can't go wrong with this flavorful dish. Pair it with rice and tofu soup |
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| Mohinga This 50 cents noodles will remind you of the good old days of being a primary school student. |
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| Jaggery This local candy is made of palm sugar! Warning: Extremely Sweet! |
MORE PHOTOS
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| A member of the Jasmine family |
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| Learn how to make Lacquerware here. |
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| Pills sold at the Market |
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| Market in Yangon |
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| Traffic in Yangon |
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| Watch where you go! |
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| Star beam Menu in Bagan |
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| Sunset Garden New Bagan |
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Dinner by the Aryawaddy River, Sunset Garden
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